fashion houses

What you need to know about designers shaping the current fashion agenda


Maria Grazia Curie joined Dior in 2016 – before that she had worked with Pierpaolo Piccioli for 25 years: first at Fendi, then at Valentino. At the Christian Dior House, Curie became the first woman to be a creative director – it is not surprising why her first show was opened with a T-shirt with the inscriptional “We should all be feminists”, referring to the essay by the writer Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie. As if to spite critics who have criticized Curie for the monotony and banality of collections in recent seasons, Dior’s financial performance is improving: for the second quarter of 2019, for example, the brand’s profit increased by more than 20 percent.


After the news of the death of Karl Lagerfeld, Chanel announced that the work of the designer would continue with Virginie Viar, director of the fashion house atelier. In 1987 Virginie came to Chanel. Prior to that, she was interested in cinema and theater: for example, she came up with costumes for Isabelle Adjani and Gerard Depardieu for the film Camilla Claudel. In the nineties, Viar already helped Lagerfeld with the Chloé collections, and from 1997 began to coordinate the couture and catwalk collections of Chanel. Today eight collections a year are released under the supervision of the designer, including couture, ready-to-wear, inter-season, and Métiers d’Art – a titanic work by the standards of the fashion industry.


Prior to his appointment to Louis Vuitton in 2013, Nicolas Gesquière worked for Gauthier, worked for Trussardi, and for 15 years led the Balenciaga. Whatever house the designer works in, his collections always count as love for historicism – for the Middle Ages, the Baroque era, or, for example, Belle Epoque. At the same time, plunging into the past and thoughts, the designer always shows futuristic things that resemble the future rather than the past.


Valentino Garavani held his last show in 2008 – the show has become one of the most soulful moments in fashion history over the past 20 years. Soon, Pierpaolo Piccioli and Maria Grazia Curie, who previously worked on the accessories of the House and launched the youth line R.E.D. Valentino. Valentino. When Maria Grazia has left for Dior Pierpaolo remains alone – and from that moment begins the most beautiful chapter in the history of Valentino. Alone, the designer creates absolutely fabulous collections that are breathtaking, and Valentino shows are almost the only shows on the schedule of Paris Fashion Week, where the audience stood up while applauding.


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